Chasing pigments

They say what belongs to you will never leave you. This may be true about a job, an opportunity, a relationship – anything but pigments in a permanent makeup. Those always leave; no matter how much they fitted your appearance, no matter how appreciative you have been of their presence and how much you begged them to stay. So, how do they do it?

As you have noticed, the color of the healed makeup is slightly different than the color of the initial pigment the artist has injected. This happens, first of all, because a part of the pigment stays in the epidermis as the needle tracks back to the surface, and since the epidermal cells migrate upwards to exfoliate later, the pigment particles they contain are also gone. In general it takes up to a month for all the pigment from the epidermis to leave the body.The tattoo appearance right after the procedure can be also a little bolder and brighter than the color it will heal to due to excessive swelling of the treated area. As for the pigment in the dermis, some of it is also lost due to the watchfulness of our body’s immune system. Phagotic cells try to eliminate the particles which are foreign to our body and deactivate what cannot be eliminated. In other words, they encircle the pigment particles and thus change the light reflection from the tattoo.

bezimeni-1There are also some non-biological reasons for pigment color changes. The size of particles in pigments is different. Smaller particles are easier for the immune system to eliminate. Moreover, the risk of pigment migration to unwanted areas increases as the size of the particles declines. Pigment migration may also lead to color changes in the area of injection. Since any pigment is a mixture of several hues, the fading will go towards the dominant one, and through the client’s natural skin tone and undertone the residual pigmentmay look prominent orange, gray or blue, for example, in eyebrows. Occasionally, pink or violet eyebrows appear, yet green ones are extremely rare due to the peculiarities of the blood flow in the area of forehead. Such changes require correction as it means the initial pigment color did not match the client’s skin undertone.

Improper pigment application contributes to alternations in the appearance of permanent makeup not only due to pigment exfoliation with epidermal cells. Depth of placement defines how light waves will reflect from the pigment. It has been proved that in human skin blue light does not penetrate deeply yet a lot of it is re-emitted from the surface. Red light, however, can penetrate much deeper and a lot of it is absorbed by the skin. This makes dark pigment (mostly brown and black) appear green, blue or gray if injected at the wrong depth.

On the bright side, it is not impossible to achieve the desired color of the permanent makeup and make it fade naturally, without turning to watercolor shades. The artist’s qualifications play the key role in successful healing and creating a natural, long-lasting look.

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