“First PMU procedure – Useful tips for clients” by Alina Soloveva

alina-1-kopiyaThis morning, over a cup of coffee, I came across the site of permanent makeup, or rather an innovation and alternative treatment in this area! The site says that the salon has the latest technology called micropigmentation; comparing to classic permanent makeup, which is associated with horrible pain, roughness and it’s prolonged staying in skin, etc, – they can do it absolutely painlessly and very naturally. Attached work photos were of very poor quality, so this “alternative” was the last straw in my desire to write a series of articles on permanent makeup. In those articles I will reveal some issues and secrets which most artists in this industry prefer to keep for themselves … and some of which many artists don’t even know. So as a PMU artist practicing on a daily basis for almost 15 years, I want to talk about the joys, myths and “horrors” of permanent makeup.

Let’s start with terminology. No matter how it is called – permanent makeup, micropigmentation, contour makeup, microblading (manual method; I will talk about it in other articles) is basically the same procedure. It is an injection of pigment under the skin using special equipment! Needle punctures are made at high speed while also applying pigment under the skin, the rest is only technical details and different names.

Permanent makeup consists of two procedures – the main application and a touch up, the interval between them generally takes from 3 weeks to 2 months. Is it always necessary to make a touch up procedure? Judge for yourself – the artist injects a foreign body (pigment) under your skin, and your organism immediately starts to deal with it as the immune system tries to reject the coloring agents, which is why the amount of the pigment remaining after the healing is very individual – from 20 to 80%. No artist can guarantee that the touch up procedure wouldn’t be required, because no one can know how your body deals with such interactions! Try to avoid artists who promise you perfect permanent makeup without any touch up procedures!

Permanent makeup can be natural or decorative, depending on the customer’s wishes! In fact, it is basically regular makeup, but performed with a needle. The needle is so thin that you can draw the hair lines of eyebrows or perfect arrows which wouldn’t be achievable with regular cosmetics.

1Eyebrows

Let’s start with the eyebrows. I must say that this is the most demanded PMU procedure in the market. There are two main methods of performing permanent makeup of eyebrows – hair strokes and shading, they also can be combined to get very beautiful results.

Eyelids
4Eyelids permanent makeup – this procedure can be performed on both the upper and the lower eyelid. Especially popular is color filling (usually black) of space between eyelashes. In my opinion such procedure will suit all women as it is an excellent base for any makeup, looks most natural, the eyes become brighter and more expressive and at the same time, there is no trace of makeup on the face visible – all very natural. I highly recommend it!

The arrows can be of different lengths, widths and colors, depending on the wishes of the client:

  • if the pigment is applied firmly – it looks as an eyeliner;
  • if absently – it will have a pencil effect;
  • finally, the “shading” – this is when you create the shadowing effect (if we put the color lightly and transparently). Lower eyelid is better to be made a little lighter and softer.

Lips

2Permanent makeup of lips can also look quite different. In the past, many women wanted to emphasize the contour of lips as if they were drawn with a pencil, but nowadays it is not very popular. Today natural effects are much more demanded, when a pigment is applied with thin layer while using natural tones; in such cases, the right shape and size can be managed properly and the overall tone can be leveled a bit. Another method is when the pigment is applied sufficiently, so the lips would look like they are painted with a lipstick; this way the shape can be adjusted as well, but the color is more pronounced.


Please consider permanent makeup as a base for a cosmetic makeup! Do not make long arrows, going beyond natural borders of eyelids area! Do not draw lips deviating from the original contour for 5 mm! Do not radically change shape of eyebrows while removing original tails and drawing a new ones somewhere high up at the temple!

The problem is that any makeup can be cleaned and made anew with changed color and shape, but permanent makeup remains for a long period of time and in some rare cases, it stays forever.

There are basic periods of “duration” for permanent makeup, but each person has their own biochemistry and metabolism, which can sometimes differ from this average figures.

 So those are basic effect “lasting” numbers for each type of PMU:

  • Eyebrows can hold for 1-1.5 years;
  • Eyelids – 1-2 years;
  • Lips – 1-3 years.

But those are general numbers! Much depends on the age of the client, nutrition, sun and other environmental factors, as well as the amount of used cosmetics, etc.

The procedure of permanent makeup is very vivid; it is like a mosaic made up of your mood, physiological condition and attitude of your artist! If there is no trust in artist’s skills or if you are tired, do not get enough sleep or have periods – then it is better to postpone your procedure! You do want great results, don’t you?

– Alina Soloveva

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