“French Candy Lips” by Maud Ravier

This time we decided to go right in the heart of the Europe and ask French PMU artist Maud Ravierabout popular “Candy Lips” technique and her approach to it.

Interview and article by Sharon Vann.

maud1Maud Ravier has been specializing in permanent makeup for the past 15 years.

In 2012 Maud created her own center, exclusively dedicated to permanent makeup.

She previously managed the beauty institute in Paris, but as she became more and more overwhelmed by the growing interest in PMU, she chose to devote 100% of her time and effort to her passion – Permanent Makeup!

Maud became well-known for her unique lips technique “Candy Lips”. Soon she was asked to hold training for the “Candy Lips” technique which revolutionized the image of permanent makeup.

In 2014, following the creation of her boutiques and schools, Maud made an exclusive sales contract with the amiea brand.

Consequently, with a help of her husband Amaury, Maud organized sales team and opened MMPSHOP showroom located at 74 Rue du Ranelagh 75016, Paris.

Lately, there is this term “Candy Lips” in Europe and especially in France. Please, tell our readers how to get this perfectly 3D lips?

The Candy Lips technique allows the creation of full lips with a natural and particularly glamorous effect.

The technique defines and redesigns the lip outline, with a shading effect blending perfectly into the flesh of the mouth.

This technique which we shall now present is carried out with an exceptional needle, the 3 slope, and a 1 Liner, allowing us to obtain a clearly defined and precise drawing of the outline.

The first stage consists of defining the outline of the mouth using a 1 liner module with a rapid movement and a percussion speed of a minimum 120 hits/second.

The work must be performed with a light hand in the same way as when an artist begins to draw a sketch.

maud2The needle must be angled in order to ensure efficient pigment injection under the skin without having to repeat the operation, thus avoiding bleeding and allowing better healing of the lips.

Once the drawing of the outline has been perfectly pigmented, we start working on the corners of the mouth. Once again, with the 1 liner, a sort of trompe l’œil (optical illusion) with a range of shades and a 3D effect is obtained.

Always work on the lip from the darkest area to the lightest in order to obtain a true XXL effect.

Make full use of volume, step back from your client, observe and design… This is an art form.

With the drawing of the outline perfectly defined and the first phase of shading completed, I now move on to a truly MAGICAL needle, the 3 slope. With this I fill in the lip with 2 further pigments from the darkest shade to the lightest, turning up the speed to 130 hits/second.

The 3 Slope allows work that is rapid, intense and precise.

The particularity of the 3 Slope is that it is possible to use these needles in 3 different ways:

  • 3 needles may be used in a linear manner to obtain a result with a sharpness equivalent to the 1 Liner;
  • 3 needles may be used lengthways for a result equivalent to 3 passes with a 1 Liner;
  • 3 needles may be used widthways to obtain a regular shade and a final result with a powdery effect.

This needle allows quicker work and above all, is significantly more common.

Concentrated pigment marks from the use of needles that are too large – thus forcing the professional to repeat numerous passes over the same zone – are a thing of the past.

I never use thick needles on a fleshy mouth as the needle is inconsistent in its penetration of the skin, bouncing back and resulting in an irregular implant of the pigments. Once healed, the drawing of the outline would be imprecise and repeated work or even correction might be required.

With this technique I can assure you, that you will practically never need to repeat the process and that your client will be entirely satisfied.

MMP AMIEA Method and Technique.

Running through the session:

This technique should be chosen when the client has a full mouth and wants a natural yet nonetheless visible result.

The best way is to draw a distinct outline which will blend completely and with no demarcation into the mucous membrane.
maud3A glamorous yet nonetheless elegant result is achieved.

The 2 modules (1 Liner & 3 Slope Amiea) and 3 colours are prepared (deep pink to draw the outline, pale pink for the shading and golden beige for the “light bubble” and the Glamlight Cupid’s bow, or alternatively 3 shades of orange if the lip may be defined as grey or blue). The mouth area is then thoroughly disinfected.

The outline is perfectly drawn to define the zone, and with some mouths it is possible to even “cheat” to gain a few extra millimeters for an even more XXL effect!

Begin with 1 Liner needle.

To begin a 1 Liner needle with a SENS machine and a latest generation, Precise pen is used.

The speed is set at 120 hits/second.

The regularity of the drawn outline and the application of pigments are assured by a combination of these two high-tech AMIEA brand tools.

With a high percussion speed, the permanent makeup, Candy Lips, light bubbles and Glamlight will be completed in less than 45 minutes.

A regularly drawn outline with an optimal implant of pigments is guaranteed.

Pulling on the corner of the mouth with a finger gives maximal tension which is required in order to obtain an even outline.

The Liner 1 needle must always penetrate the skin at an angle to avoid marks and ripping of the tissue, while the pen must be held at an angle of 45° to avoid the rebound effect.

The movement must be rapid and precise, and it is essential to never stay on a single small area too long! The Liner 1 needle is extremely precise, and if a single small area is being under pressure to long – marks and irregularities will appear.

Draw on the skin as if with a makeup crayon, softly and gently…

The client’s head is always positioned in such a way, that the pen is always just above the skin to ensure a correct descent of pigment to the needle.

Now that the outline is pigmented, clean the whole area and ensure that the drawn outline is correctly placed and is regular.

maud4A second pass will allow the smoothing of any eventual little defects…

Now that everything is perfectly smoothed, it’s time to make use of the volumes…

Turning the machine up to 130 hits/second, the movement is even more rapid, but now without too much tension in the lips.

With this reduced tension the needle’s action will be gentler and less penetrating, with subsequently a somewhat more blurred effect.

The aim is to intensify the corners of the lips from the darkest area to the lightest towards the central zone of the mouth, as if drawing a sphere on a sheet of paper with a pencil.

Moving onto the 3 Slope AMIEA module:

maud5Keeping the speed up to 130, now move on to a lighter shade to optimise the volume.

The Slope is marvellous for it can be used in three different ways

Either in a linear movement to obtain a very fine line as with the 1 Liner, but with an intense and rapid result..

or – From top to bottom / Widthways

Work on the shading now with a slower movement to allow the 3 slope to evenly implant the pigment.

Starting from the drawn upper lip outline and moving inwards, work towards the centre of the mouth. The same technique is applied to the lower lip. 

Using the slope widthways

Once the relevant surface has been entirely passed over, the slope is turned to operate widthways…. I like to end with this technique for it produces an even finish which after healing gives a perfectly merged and velvety effect to the mouth.

The movement is once again rapid without too much tension.

One or a maximum of two passes are required.
maud6The movement is the same is if you had just done a drawing and are rapidly rubbing the shading with the finger to blur the lines, from left to right until the desired merging of the shades is obtained.

Now, a new change of colour to obtain a guaranteed volume effect … the light bubble.

For this change in colour it is unnecessary to clean the needle for the mixture of pale pink and golden beige, which will be perfect to obtain a subtle flash of light towards the centre of the mouth.

The light bubble is placed precisely in the centre of both the upper and lower lip.

The work is rapid and light; here we are seeking to just superficially “scratch” the zone.

Under no circumstances should the beige appear “en masse”, but should just give the impression that there is a slightly lighter zone of colour on the lip.

Check your work. If you press hard on the mouth, blood will be eliminated and the shading and the little traces of beige in the centre should be perfectly visible.

With this knack you can perfectly see if zones need extra work and as a result retouching after healing will be limited to a minimum.

Time to move onto glamlight!!! (or “arc de cupidon” as we would say in French.)

Change needle for a 1 Liner for a precise and discreet result.

The needle must be thoroughly cleansed; the beige pigment must be absolutely pure.

Ok… Now the aim is to place a very light and discreet line of beige on the lip’s natural rim with 1 or 2 passes at most.

And there you have it – Beautiful lips.

CANDY LIPS has become a fashion craze in Paris, and when I attend conferences abroad, this technique is referred to as… the French Touch.


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