“How “colorful” eyebrows appear” by Alina Soloveva

how-colorful-eyebrows-appear-by-alina-soloveva-1Red. Blue. Violet. This could easily have been a rainbow.

Many artists have faced such an important problem as residual pigments of abovementioned colors on client’s eyebrows. The first thing an inexperienced artist would do is to turn to the laser to erase the previous “masterpieces” from their client’s face.

If the color is too saturated or dark, it is indeed the most reasonable solution because there will hardly be any other way of neutralizing the underlying color. Yet, if the eyebrows are not too bright, they can be corrected with the help of pigments.

To find out how to correct the eyebrows that look everything but brown the artist has to understand what happened to their initial brown color. Still, first we need to understand what makes it up.

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Brown color is a secondary color. There is no such thing as a brown-color oxide. Thus, to obtain a brown hue three primary colors are mixed: yellow (ochre), red (cadmium) and black (carbon/soot). The artist should understand that in order to make the pigment look warmer they need to add more yellow or red (or both) to the aforementioned proportion. It will also make the color look lighter. Conversely, for colder hues the portion of black should be increased, although it will also make the color darker. With these two rules of pigment mixing it becomes obvious that there is no such thing as a warm dark brown color. Also, it comes as a common knowledge that all colors look colder under the skin as they mix with the patient’s skin undertone. The darker the skin is, the colder the final tone you’ll get. You don’t have to be Fitzpatrick himself to remember this rule.

The first color to “escape” from the permanent makeup eyebrows is ochre iron oxide (yellow). At this stage, which is normally a 6-8 months after the procedure, we can see that the coldness of black mixed with red results in violet.

Then, however, black also dissolves away and what is left is cadmium oxide alone, so the eyebrows appear reddish or pinkish or slightly orange. Cadmium oxide is perceived by the body as a natural compound and therefore the body isn’t trying to get rid of it so eagerly. A possible solution to this problem might be use of synthetic pigments but they have been introduced to the micropigmentation market not so long ago and therefore it is hard to say whether they are good enough.


The question remains – how to avoid reddish eyebrows? One tip is to use the brown pigment with the base of yellow and black. Upon the first application they will appear slightly cold and grayish. To make them look warmer I use synthetic colors. The pigment free of iron oxide will not result in red eyebrows.

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