Independent investigation of permanent makeup by Larisa Volkova

Article by Larisa Volkova.

You can talk and argue indefinitely, but I decided to accept neutrality in this experiment. I’ve been working in permanent makeup for more than 16 years. I’ve tried and saw a lot, and most importantly I kept statistics of each client. I never make it my goal to use equipment or pigments of one company. Not because they are not all good or bad, but because I believe that a creative person needs constant desire to improve the result. There are no limits; everyone has heard this truth. There are no limits, but there is a desire! And it drives pmu artists.

The problem is that one jumps from equipment to equipment, from pigments to pigments of different brands, after reading some single post in a social network, not having time to figure out what exactly doesn’t suits them. And another category of specialists, having formed their own style, begins a search based on the objective reasons for dissatisfaction with the goods.

There can be a lot of reasons for this. For example, working with soft feathered eyebrows does not require a high content of dye, in contrast to linear techniques on the eyebrows (e.g. hair strokes). So the device with an accurate and atraumatic puncture with a needle is necessary for working with thin hairs, but it does not matter for soft filling of the lips. In general, all these requirements and characteristics are always individual.

This resembles car driving, for example. Someone “torments” the gearbox, jumping forward beyond others at the traffic lights, and someone likes a calm, measured ride.

Which pigments will be better used in your work? The answer to this question is your choice! Never shift this responsibility to another specialist, whether he is famous, honest or interested in advertising. Responsibility for your choice is assumed only by you!

– I will only talk about the first stage of an independent investigation. Why first? Because now it is possible to evaluate only a few stages of permanent makeup, such as, usability and the results of healing. But there is still the most important factor: permanent makeup effect duration time! And this takes time! Sometimes more than a year!

– I will take three main criteria for evaluation as a basis: safety, convenience and result.

– I will judge the advantages and disadvantages of permanent pigments based on many years of experience. No particular pigments specifically for comparison with tattoo pigments were used! In my practice I use various permanent pigments of Italian, German and American manufacturers.

Lips Permanent Makeup

Pigments for permanent makeup


1.Note the safety, confidence in which manufacturers inspire us with. And, as my experience shows, these statements are justified. I work with them calmly, regardless of the mark in the client’s history in the column “Allergic reactions.”

2.Process of work (convenience in work). I really like pigments that do not dry for a long time and have a texture like the gouache paint, viscous and not liquid. Why? Because this way I have a feeling that I’m painting client’s lips with a lipstick, and not working with a needle. Working with them makes me feel like a soft sliding in regards to procedure itself, and this is a big and pleasant plus in my understanding.

3.The result. Confidence that I wouldn’t overdo it with the density of filling. Maybe someone could argue with this, but I do not like to “torture” lips with a 10 and more needle rounds. Of course, there are “unique” specialists who can end up with a light color buried in the deep layers of the skin of the lips…


1.Security. I have no complaints here! If we are talking about pigments that are not purchased through less legal channels, of course.

2.Convenience. There’s no certain answer to that, as many things depend on the skin of a person. We cannot talk about the universality of pigments, as we live in non-universal world. I will say the main thing, though. I often have to face the fact that the pm pigment fills a large area of the lips slower than, for example the pigment for the tattoo (I’ll talk more about it below).

It’s neither good nor bad and depends on different separate cases.

In cases with hypersensitivity on the lips it is non-convenient for some customers who are not at all inclined to take this fact into account. As a result, you have to suffer yourself and torment the other. And this simply results in all the spent nerve cells. Of course, the process can be stopped until an additional procedure can be performed. But then this “pleasure” will last not just one day, but 30 (!), while client is waiting for a next visit.

3.And, finally, the result. That’s then the most questions arise. To yourself, to the manufacturer, to the God, maybe. And believe me, these questions are relevant. After all, I do not work for one year or even five. I know for sure what the result can be, and I have witnessed It with my own eyes many years ago and up until today. I have clients whose trust I have earned for all these 16 years. And what can I tell them today, when the result is poorly expressed? I have no clue. Maybe I’ve changed or did my work not properly? I couldn’t find the answer to this question. But more on this below…

Pigments for tattoo


1.Safety. This issue worries me the most. I do not know what happened exactly, maybe I “absorbed” the information that only permanent pigments should be used on the face for so long, and this gave rise to my distrust and fear of using tattoo pigments. But despite being an experienced artist for many years and using original products, every time I think this through and necessarily discuss safety issues with the client.

And to think that there was a time when I didn’t even think about it so fanatically wherever and with whomever I worked with. Thank God, everything is fine with permanent makeup!

2.Ease of use. Here, we must divide this concept into two components.

The first is the ability to mix. For me, a specialist crazy in love with the process of mixing, tattoo pigments are like treasures of Eldorado! Well, it is really boring for me to use ready mixes and I can’t do anything about it for many years. The boundaries in drawing remind me of riding a tricycle, which is guided by one’s mother walking behind. Control is very necessary, but for children who enjoy the mother’s protection. Do you understand what I mean? If you are already an experienced artist and you can take responsibility for your work, you can come off from your mother’s skirt. If you are not experienced with paints and aren’t ready to increase your pace, then don’t take risks and use the finished color. The second component I’ll point out in the minuses below.

3.Result. It goes without saying, that no matter how hard we’d like to keep up with all the rules and be obedient experts, the result is the most important bonus for both an artist and a client. It is when working with tattoo dyes that the number of touch-up procedures performed after a month is reduced, at least, to 70%. Resistance of the result obtained during the work speaks for itself. I will not generalize all the colors under same conclusions. I conducted my work on the lips using INTENZE paints.

And please do not forget that there are still years of verification in the future…


1.Safety. Of course, cases of allergic reactions occur most often with tattoo pigments. Therefore, it is necessary to talk about this with those who want to get results for many years. Everyone can get into the risk group. The main thing that is required of an artist is a conscience to treat a client with original paints, rather than resort to the use of fakes. I’m sure that manufacturers who had tested the products for decades have certainly taken care of the safety of their product. After all, here we are talking about the brand image.

2.Ease of use. It was not convenient for me to use the tattoo pigments in the usual way. I work with disposable container-rings for pigments, from which the tattoo paints were constantly poured out. Therefore, the left hand had to be constantly controlled, so as not to drip pigments on a client’s face. In addition to everything, I prefer thick textures, not liquid ones. To put is simply, I could not restrain myself and added permanent paint to the mixture of tattooing ones. I gave preference to two brands BIOTEK and MYSTYLE, because I always liked their consistency in work.

3.Result. There were no minuses found after the healing. The color is as planned, the saturation is what you wanted. Time will tell.

P.S. What I would like to wish to the readers is this: don’t “overplay” the work with tattoo paints with a high white content in the composition. This can be seen with the naked eye even for those who don’t yet have much experience. Looking at the color, ask yourself the question “What is it? Light or not?” If you clearly see that the color is whitish, do not take it for use on the lips in its pure form. After a lapse of years, the lips will acquire a grayish/dirty tone, dull shade and will look flat lacking a characteristic lively shine on them.

The original article was written by Larisa Volkova шт two parts and can be found here and here

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