“Perfect lips sketch in Permanent Makeup” by Inna Kirichenko

Special guest – Inna Fomenko (Sphinx PMU & Tattoo Studio, Moscow).

Determining the right shape of lips is an essential element of PMU procedure. So we always have to do our best to achieve the ideal sketch.

Today I want to tell you about the classical design of lips.

1. We begin with determining the lower point of upper lip, in between Cupid’s bow.


2. After that, you have to draw 2 curved lines up to the tops of Cupid’s bow. There can be some cases of slight shifts of central vertical line in the middle of lips. We should always follow this line in accordance with client’s nose.


3. Now, from the upper points of Cupid’s bow we draw smooth round arches, continue with an inward curve and stop at the oral commisure (lip’s corners). This way we provide lifting effect by creating slight and natural “smile”. Both upper points should be equally spaced from one another, with their middle point being a nose line (middle point).

4. While drawing those arches, do not go beyond Vermilion border (natural lip borders) for more than 1 mm.


Some clients ask us to lift their lip contours for additional volume, but we always explain to them that this approach is unnatural and the result can bore them after some time. As an alternative to this, you can use fillers.

Permanent makeup + fillers = greatest results!

5. Now we can start to draw lover lips by making a mark in the middle of lower lip vermilion border.


6. Now we can connect it with lip’s corners by drawing dome shaped arches. As opposed to the upper lip, here we do not draw any inward curved lines. This contour can be seen better then client’s lips are stretched. Lower and upper lips are connecting in those corner points.


Additional useful tips:

  • While drawing lips sketch, never use sharp angles and straight lines. Sometimes, however, there can be small exceptions due to the natural attributes of client’s lips, but that happens very rarely. Always take into account that a slight asymmetry can be made in sketching if the original lips and other facial areas have such characteristics.
  • If lips corners are lowered down a little, we draw upper line slightly shorter, and, at the same time, we lift ends of lower lip to creating “smile” effect. This way we provide the desired rejuvenating effect.
  • Widely placed upper points, are more commonly faced while working with male clients. So always take that into account as well, because if you make that distance too big with female clients, you can get negative results.
  • Remember, that some deviations from classical forms can bore your client after some time, and since this procedure is “permanent”, you have to explain to you client that they might want to reconsider abovementioned deviations.

This text is a fragment of the SOLO PMU Academy Webinar. You can learn more about these webinars here: pmuwebinar.com


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