“Latin Eyeliner” by Lindsay Lambert

In this article we asked Lindsay Lambert to tell us about Latin Eyeliner procedure.

Interview and article by Sharon Vann.

There is nothing that can replace the beauty of the dramatic dark black latin eyeliner…

Whether you have brunette eyes full of passion, fresh green eyes or cold mysterious blue, – the Latin eyeliner will change your look!

– How do we draw it?

Sharona’s Tip:

As you can see, the “trick” is to draw the tail first!

Then you need to continue the line until the beginning of the eye… then to fill it.

This is all good when we talk about Latin eyeliner in general, but when we have to make it permanent, things are getting more complicated.

This time I’ve invited Lindsay Lambert (B.bs) Trainer and brow artist at Dermace Spmu Academy England and owner of Serwnity Beauty Boutique at Doncaster salon, to show us how she does this beautiful “black magic”.


– What pigments do you use in general and specific in eyeliner?

I use Dermace pigments. I am also very proud to be part of their wonderful team and find the pigments are true to colour and the longevity of the retention is really good too. For eyeliner I use Black Onyx, which I think is the best.

–  What equipment do you use?

I use 3 outliner for eyeliners, my machine is digital and is more commonly known as a Vena orSymphony 2, it is my little workhorse! I would love to share my step by step technique for creating a Latino eyeliner with you all. I use black onyx by Dermace for all eyeliner and 3 outliner needle or a 3 micro.

First of all, I numb working area for 20 minutes with Numb Quick Pink.

Anesthetics – NUMB QUICK PINK – For eyelids only, Numquick topical anesthetic works in 15 minutes and has a pH range of 7.4. Doctor recommended. Ophthalmologist-tested. No occlusive dressing. Use before you break the skin. Apply a coat to eyeliner. Wait 15-20 minutes.

3% Lidocaine, 2% Tetracaine, Jojoba, Aloe Vera, Vitamins A,D,E,K.

Process of work step by step

Then I pour a little pigment into a pot and apply the pigment with a pointed nail acrylic brush to the clients clean, makeup free eyelid, I usually start in the middle and paint outwards keeping the template about 5 to 6mm wide, stretching the skin from outer and inner corners to avoid corrugating the template. When I get to outer corner I paint a flick tending to go up a little not a straight line and thinning it at the end. I then paint the inner corner very thinly to avoid the tear ducts.

The tear duct is a membrane in the two corners where tattooing can cause a rupture, thus making its migration inevitable.

Paint on template on other eye. I then get about 10 wooden cocktail sticks and dampen the ends and pull tiny pieces of cotton pad (just fibres) and twist the end of the cocktail stick I to the fibres to make the point not sharp as cotton buds are too large. I then wipe the cotton covered stick along the top of the template at 45 degrees from inner to outer corner going beyond the flick and then wiping away excess pigment on the skin so the flick is not too long. I then get another cocktail stick and wipe the bottom of the flick going slightly upwards so the flick is not a straight line (see picture) I then repeat on second eye. Take photos and lay client down.


Second step

I start to tattoo the bottom flick line going bottom to top in one movement and then start on top line leaving a millimeter lower to create a very fine flick and carrying on until I reach inner corner, try not to break off and hold needle 90 degrees (if the pigment has not taken well I suggest you tilt needle to 45 degrees) and have needle quite far out, stretch skin and go slow and shallow, just do one pass at this stage, numb and move to other eye.

Come back to first eye, wipe from outer to inner corner slowly with gauze that has been dampened with sterile water, for numbing in between each pass I use lmx4 mixed with xyclocaine spray. Once wiped I dab dry with clean gauze and do 2nd pass this is when you will discover that if the pigment has been accepted or not. If not – revert to 45 degrees not 90. Numb and repeat on other eye.

I generally do only two passes on outline. The flick can be lengthened though and crisped up a little on inspection. Once the two passes have been made I then color in still with the 3 outliner needle or swap to a 5 shader. Stretch the skin on just tattoo a small area at a time up and down, up and down wiping each 6mm or so on the way, the needle needs to be 45 degrees with numbing after each pass. Repeat on other eye.

Come back and color in a picking motion forward and back under 45 degrees. Once 2 passes have been done on both eyes, sit the client up and mark any areas that need correcting with a little pigment on a clean micro brush, this is when the skin is at its most swollen so do not overwork. As the flick can become very sore to the client, remember that if all the color is in and both flicks are crisp just – go through the lash base twice so there is a crisp line through the lash base as well as the top, going really thin into the inner corner.


– What is your recommendation for after care and please explain our readers its purpose.

Aftercare is to keep the new eyeliner dry and avoid wetting it for 5 days and to clean in the corner of the eyes in a morning with sterile water and clean gauze or cotton bud. Avoid direct light and try to wear sunglasses if the procedure is done in the summer months, as the cornea may be slightly sensitive to light for a few hours.

Avoid mascara for at least 3-5 days and when mascara can be worn again – purchase a new one to avoid cross contamination. Do not rub the new tattoo or pick at it and on the 5th to 7th day clean it gently with sterile water and gauze or clean cotton cloth. Also avoid wearing contact lenses for 48 hours, it is better to wear glasses.

Thank you very much Lindsay Lambert, it was a pleasure learning from you!

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