“LIP OMBRE” with Anna Maria Finelli

PMU International Magazine proudly presents this article by Sharon Vann.

1When it comes to lips procedure, not only the needle’s angle and the type of machine plays an important role, but also the color combination.

In a lip we have 3 different areas to consider and, like in a dance of colors, we draw the borders between them creating our lip Ombre’.

The Ombre’ technique is based on the beautiful game of shades.

We cross from dark red outline border to lighter colors in the middle of the lips giving them an illusion of sensuality.

A dance of colors, that brings back the youth and the passion to client’s lips.

Let’s see how to perform this beautiful technique:

First option is to use the same color and to “play” with the density of the pigments under the skin tissue.

Very dense in the outline contour (3 outline needle will do usually), then, while going towards the middle of the lip with Magnum needle and soft touch, we give gentle silky-smooth result!

Second option:

First color on the surrounding area of the contour in the Ombre’ technique needs to be darkest.

Second color will be a connective color that we create from the first color and the new color that we choose; the exact one that we have decided to use in the inner lip.

Third color will be the inner color (a lighter color). I would recommend using “light pink” or “light orange”


There are a few cases in which Ombre’ technique is most recommended to use:

1. Flat lips – using the Ombre’ technique with two-three different shades we give a more juicy and sensual look to this type of lips.


2. Asymmetrical lips – The Ombre’ technique is the best way to correct this type of lips. First we draw the outline contour, (make sure you added the “missing parts” in the right place) then, like in a regular procedure, we put anesthetic for unbroken tissue, we wait about 20-30 minutes and start to work.


3. Lip with drooping corners –we can fix this type of lips with the Ombre’ technique as well. The steps will always be to take a good professional makeup lip pencil and draw it! When it comes to lips, if you can draw it – you can fix it.

Thin lips, flat lips, asymmetrical lips, lips with dropping corners or small wrinkles around them. In all these cases we can fix the imperfection without drawing attention to the fact, that we added a small touch to the natural lip.

foto-profilo-annaAnother interesting & famous technique is the “Red on white” by the Italian master Anna Maria Finelli.

Anna Maria Finelli has been a professional permanent makeup consultant and makeup artist for over 20 years and has been teaching micropigmentation since 1995.

Her passionate interest led her to open her own educational institute in Rome in 2003 where she offers ‘Accredited’ Permanent Makeup courses to introduce new skilled and certified technicians in the PMU industry as well as Professional Makeup courses.

Her thorough knowledge in this field and constant research in new theories and products got her involved in the development of new techniques. Being passionate for the areola reconstruction and scar camouflage she is also a strong believer of the importance of the ‘corrective makeup theory’ applied to micropigmentation in order to achieve the perfect look for both men and women. She also a regular guest in the PMU World Conferences, where she gives a demonstration of her new 3D-Full lips technique ‘Red on White’ which leads to great results for a natural and yet glamorous smile.

Those who want to learn this beautiful technique are welcome to contact her academy.

Let’s have a look at the steps of this magic procedure.

One thing I have to say and worn you…

The white color IS titanium dioxide!

Watching those photos cannot replace taking a workshop in this subject if you are interested to work in the same technique!

Before procedure
We start with the contour (3 outline needle) and the Red color.
We start with the contour (3 outline needle) and the Red color.
Applying a thin layer of white color above the red.
Applying a thin layer of white color above the red.

Then working with the red above the white…

To my question: “what is this white?”

Giulia (Anna’s right hand) answering: Titanium dioxide

She also mentioned that Anna used 3 outline for contour and 5 Magnum for inside shade in this procedure.

Healed after two years
Healed after two years

I tried to investigate the titanium dioxide issue on lips and I found out that there is great controversy regarding this issue.

Some people will say that when you add it to your lip mix it will increase the color coverage and stability than using color without it. Others will tell you to avoid it always.

The truth is out there!!!

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