“Permanent eyebrow makeup: color correction” by Alina Soloveva

alina_photoAll the artists from time to time face various situations when color correction is required – normally in about a year or two after permanent makeup application.

In this article I am going to share with you my opinion about this whole situation, as well as my experience in color correction. You will find out about different ways to correct unwanted colors, and read about color theory basics. I need to point out that in this article I am going to talk about iron oxide pigments.

Pigments used for permanent lip makeup can turn blue or purple, so the lips can look bluish, purplish, brownish or greyish; this happens when the color was chosen incorrectly, or the process of pigment application went wrong. As for permanent eyebrow makeup, the variety of colors is large: pigments can turn red, pink, orange, coral, purple or blue. What is the reason of this color change?

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To understand the reason, we need to explore the properties of brown pigments. Browns can be complex; they can include cadmium oxide (red), ocher (yellow) or soot (black). Over time, the yellow color is the first one that is removed from the skin, so then the skin color turns purplish, or has a bit of a lilac shade. Later, the black color goes away, and then the only color that is left is red. Cadmium (red) is perceived by the body as a natural color, so we often can see red, pink, orange eyebrows after the other shades have faded away; the problem is that it stays for a long time – sometimes forever. Personally, I use brown pigments based on ocher and soot (yellow and black), they represent cold shades of brown. Then after the procedure I use different anti-grey correctors (usually with orange pigments) to make the main color of the eyebrows warmer… to be continued

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In this article Alina also explains how to correct blue and purpleeyebrows, as well as basic principles and methods of color correction.

You can read the full article by Alina Soloveva in PMU International Magazine # 2.

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