The artist of permanent makeup needs an impeccable taste, but relying entirely on a flair is not worth it. The professional should determine the client’s data according to a number of criteria and proceeding from them, predict how the pigment will behave, and how natural it will look. Objective evaluation is very important – it helps to avoid mistakes such as unwanted shades, blurry lines and even scars.
So, at the beginning of work it is necessary to estimate appearance of the client on several points:
– Skin tone.
– Skin type.
– The skin’s tendency to scarring.
– Facial shape and features.
– Psycho-emotional status (facial expressions, gestures).
– The image as a whole (style, makeup, clothes).
Determination of skin tone
The first thing that a pmu artist should pay attention to is the client’s skin tone. It depends on which pigment will be used in the work and whether the color will eventually go into an unwanted red or blue tint.
The first factor that affects the color of the skin is melanin. The yellow shade of the skin depends on its concentration. The second factor is the circulatory system. If the vessels are located close to the surface of the skin, then it acquires a pink palate, if deep – green, gray or blue.
You can divide all skin tones into warm and cold. This is a very crude classification, but it helps explain the principle of pigment selection. We are used to the fact that in decorative makeup cosmetics of cold shades are chosen to match the cold tone of the skin, and warm ones to match the “warm” skin. But in permanent makeup everything is the opposite. Cold pigment applied to the cold tone of the skin will eventually turn blue, and the warm color on the warm skin tone will turn red.
Experienced artists mix the pigment, achieving the desired warm shade while working with a cold type of appearance of the client and vice versa.
The dye doesn’t get mixed “by eye” – it is measured with mathematical precision according to a certain scheme. To use the right proportions, the artist must determine the skin tone and melanin concentration. This is helped by special tools, of which the Fitzpatrick digital scale (based on data on how the skin reacts to ultraviolet rays) and the Lushan scale (applied to the inside of the forearm, which usually does not tan), are the most common.
The skin type affects the final result of permanent makeup and its duration.
Oily skin is porous, usually thick, so it requires a deep pigment injection. Artists often recommend avoiding hair stroke technique while working on such skin, because it is difficult to keep the paint and the lines can get blurry. In this case, to achieve the maximum natural effect many professionals recommend using shading technique.
Dry skin, thin with almost invisible pores, on the contrary, grasps the pigment very quickly. While working with such skin, it is recommended to use hair stroke and shading techniques very subtly, not going too deep. Otherwise, the pigment will fade away non-equally, for too long or will leave behind scar marks.
The aging skin is usually dry, but dense. Any technique can be applied to the owners of soft skin. For women with coarse skin, however, it is often recommended to make more “superficial” permanent makeup, like soft shading.
The tendency to form keloids
Keloid is a proliferation of connective tissue due to a malfunction of the fibroblasts. It looks like a formation protruding above the surface of the skin, having a pink color and repeating the outline of the wound. The propensity to the appearance of such scars is inherited; mostly people of 18-25 years old are in the risk zone.
Keloid scar can occur with any damage to the skin, including pmu. Before starting to work, the artist should ask the client about the propensity for keloids and, if possible, examine the scars existing on the face or body.
Shapes and facial features
Remember, the client is individual: everyone has a different eye shape, the natural shape of the eyebrows and lips. Working on a single template in the sphere of permanent tattooing is a huge mistake. Even if the client has come for “fashionable” eyebrows, you should pick up a sketch which be suitable for this particular case. For example, with a round shape of the face it is recommended to pick the eyebrows with a high rise; with a rectangular shape of the face – straight eyebrows; triangular – rounded.The same with the lips and eyeliner.
The length, width and direction of the lines should be suitable for the client; emphasize advantages and hide drawbacks.
Psycho-emotional status of the client
Everyone has his own facial expressions and gestures. Watch the client, especially if his/her facial expression is active. Note if a woman smiles with the corners of her mouth looking downwards, her eyes wrinkled, her brows frowned. Over time, such habits can provoke the appearance of facial wrinkles, which means that permanent makeup should be carried out taking into account these features.
Returning to the above examples, you can visually raise the corners of the lips; instead of long arrows offer a lightweight eyeliner; make the eyebrows soft and, if possible, light – so that the face does not seem angry.
Customer’s image as a whole
In addition to natural data and behavioral characteristics, the artist must pay attention to the client’s image in general: clothes, accessories, hair and makeup. This will help to give the client a harmonious appearance that will not clash with the inner nature.
A modest girl who adheres to the natural style is unlikely to be comfortable with the graphical arrows on her eyelids or scarlet lips. And an extravagant lady with a hot temperament will certainly be pleased with the permanent makeup emphasizing her vivid personality.
In conclusion, it should be noted that the system of assessing the appearance of the client for each artist should be honed to perfection. We mentioned only the main points that should be taken into account before starting a work. Each artist, based on his/her experience, adds criteria that help him to achieve the perfect result.