The shape of the eyebrows is very important, because it can enhance the appearance of the face; eyebrows balance the features and frame the eyes. The main thing is to choose a suitable shape of eyebrows depending on facial features as well as the desired effect.
There are simple basic rules which can help to achieve a great result.
- First of all you need to determine the starting point of the eyebrow. Draw a direct line from the wing of the nose through the inner corner of the eye.
- Secondly, define the highest point of the eyebrows – the one where the arch should peak. Draw a straight line from the outermost edge of the nose across the outermost edge of the pupil. The line can also go across the middle of the iris – it depends on the shape of facial oval and also on the parts of the face that need to be emphasized.
- Finally, you need to determine the length of the eyebrows – to find the point where the outer brow will end. Draw a line from the outside of the nostril to the outer corner of the eye. It is better when the tail of the eyebrow is not lower than the starting point but is located on the same line or a bit higher.
The shape of the eyebrows depends on facial geometry.
Sometimes the shape of the eyebrows needs to be corrected in order to conform to beauty standards. Any shapes of the eyebrows look good on oval and diamond-shaped faces, provided that the arch, the upper and the lower points were defined correctly. However, round, oblong, triangular and square facial oval are usually considered to be more complicated with regards to choosing the eyebrow shapes. In fact, it is possible to make any face look more attractive by shifting the focus.
Round facial shape. Try to avoid long straight lines; the tails of the eyebrows also should not be long as this will emphasize the width of the face. It is better to draw attention to the peak of the brow.
- Oblong facial shape. A flat brow shape looks more harmonious on such faces than any other shapes. The angles should not be pronounced; otherwise it can emphasize the length of the face. Flat and long eyebrow shapes will make the face look shorter.
- Square facial shape. Angled and curled eyebrows balance a pronounced jawline; long tails and straight lines of the eyebrows can emphasize the jawline, which is better to avoid.
- Triangular facial shape. A softened arch peak looks better on such faces. Make sure that the beginning and end of the eyebrows are at the same level; otherwise the upper part of the face will seem even wider. The ends of the brows should not be prolonged.
Creating hair strokes
The direction of the hair strokes (as well as the quality) depends on the location and ethnic origin of the person. The difference is noticeable if you look closely.
Below is European and Asian style eyebrows examples.
- European style of eyebrows (pic.1): thin hair strokes proceed in an upward direction; only a third of the eyebrow strokes proceed downwards or towards the tail. Sometimes the direction is only upward.
- Asian style of eyebrows (pic.2): at the beginning of the brow hair strokes grow upwards, the main part of the eyebrow strokes grows downwards.
When choosing a shape of the eyebrows, it is important to make sure that hair strokes are applied in a natural direction relative to each part of the eyebrow. If a direction of tattooed strokes differs from a natural one, it can make the eyebrows appear very artificial.
Each hair stroke has its own growth direction; it can look really boring when all the strokes are straight and have the same length.
There are a few tricks which can help to make eyebrows look very natural:
- Try to avoid straight lines; add a little curve to the hair stroke so it does not look artificial.
- Keeping the same direction, make the curves of hair strokes look a bit different; this will also help to make the brows appear natural.
- When crossing the hair strokes, make sure the angles are soft, diamond-shaped; avoid straight crossed lines, this checkered pattern looks very artificial.
- In order to create a realistic 3D-effect, you need to vary the applied pressure; it will make the hair strokes appear different in terms of density – some of them will be lighter, other strokes will look darker. It is also possible to achieve a great result by combining different colors and shades of pigments (for example, light brown and dark brown pigments).
Choosing the suitable color
Human skin is opaque; this is the reason that applied pigments get cold shades. Therefore, it is not a good idea to use black pigments for eyebrows as after healing they become bluish or greenish. The darker the skin is, the colder the shades of pigments will look.
As a rule, we use different shades of brown when tattooing eyebrows. Brown pigments consist of three basic iron oxides – cadmium, ocher and carbon black. The three basic colors are red, yellow and black. Combining these three colors and mixing them in different proportions helps to get the desired shade of brown. If red and yellow colors prevail in the composition, the shade will appear warmer. If you want to make eyebrows look darker, then add more of black color; in this case brown pigment looks darker – as well as colder. Yellow and black pigments fade faster than red ones. Cadmium (red) is perceived by the body as a natural color, so we often can see red, pink, orange eyebrows after the other shades have faded away; the problem is that is stays for a long time – sometimes forever. A big advantage of the hair stroke technique is that a few years after tattooing the “red effect” is less noticeable than after using other techniques.
I tried to avoid “the red effect” and managed to achieve very good results. I use brown pigments based on ocher and soot (yellow and black), they represent cold shades of brown. Then I use different anti-grey correctors (usually with orange pigments) to make the main color of the eyebrows warmer.
In the next issue I will tell you how to work with different correctors in order to correct red, blue and purple shades of eyebrows.
Good luck in your work!
– Alina Soloveva